Tasting Notes: Blackberry Lemonade
Variety: SL28, SL34, Ruiru 11, and Batian
Region: Nyeri County, Kenya
Altitude: 1795 masl
Soil: Volcanic loam
Process: Fully washed and dried on raised beds
How do I love Kenya? Let me count the ways...
Bright, Sweet Acidity
Juice and candy
And always a special place in my heart.
The combination of work from 477 smal holders organized around the Gichichi factory.
Mt. Kenya, at the helm of Kenya’s Central Province, is the second tallest peak on the continent of Africa and a commanding natural presence. The mountain itself is a single point inside a vast and surreal thicket of ascending national forest and active game protection communities. The central counties of Kenya extend from the center of the national park, like five irregular pie slices, with their points meeting at the peak of the mountain. It is along the lower edge of these forests where, in wet, high elevation communities with mineral-rich soil (Mt. Kenya is a stratovolcano) many believe the best coffees in Kenya, often the world, are crafted.
Nyeri is perhaps the most well-known of these central counties. Kenya’s coffee is dominated by a cooperative system of production, whose members vote on representation, marketing and milling contracts for their coffee, as well as profit allocation. Othaya Farmers Cooperative Society, the umbrella organization that includes Gichichi factory, is one of Kenya’s larger societies, with 19 different factories and more than 14,000 farmer members across the southern Nyeri region.
The Gichichi factory is located between the cities of Othaya and Gichichi, close to the Chinga reservoir, in far southern Nyeri near the Murang’a county border. The cool air and precipitation that washes over this region, emanating from both Mt. Kenya’s forest to the north and nearby Aberdare Mountains to the west, is considered a large contributor to Nyeri’s coveted coffee terroir.
Kenya is of course known for some of the most meticulous at-scale processing that can be found anywhere in the world. Bright white parchment, nearly perfectly sorted by density and bulk conditioned at high elevations is the norm, and a matter of pride, even for generations of Kenyan processing managers who prefer drinking Kenya’s tea (abundantly farmed in nearby Muranga county) to its coffee. Ample water supply in the central growing regions has historically allowed factories to wash, and wash, and soak, and wash their coffees again entirely with fresh, cold river water. Conservation is creeping into the discussion in certain places--understandably in the drier areas where water, due to climate change, cannot be as taken for granted—but for the most part Kenya continues to thoroughly wash and soak its coffees according to tradition.
The established milling and sorting by grade, or bean size, is a longstanding tradition and positions Kenya coffees well for roasters, by tightly controlling the physical preparation and creating a diversity of profiles from a single processing batch.